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[Courtesy of Bill Grenoble, November 1998] On the wing tips, I make a diagonal cut at 80 degrees from the TE leading inward, then use a 6" radius arc to lay out the curves (do it once on a piece of posterboard and cut the curve section out with sissors).
Once you have the mylars cut for the first one, just lay the core in and trace the mylar outline on it to cut the curved tip for the next ones. Then flip the core over, and sanding CAREFULLY, scallop the underside of the tip down to a uniform 1/8" thickness or so, right from the LE around to where it starts to taper to the TE.
Blend it over the first 2 or 3 inches inboard so that you don't have an abrupt taper at the tip. Your mylars will conform, and you end up with a very nice laminar flow tip. (but what do I know) <BG> We have noticed that shaping the tips before attaching the 2oz leading edge glass cloth strip adds some extra feet to our throw height in reduced drag. At my age, I need all the extra feet I can get. Seems to help tip stalling also. (this ship does not tip stall easily) |
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